Imagine this: A fresh silk press - so flowy, silky, shiny… and the best part? You did it all by yourself. So, wouldn’t it be nice to turn that into a reality? Today we’ll be sharing with you the ultimate guide to a diy-at home silk press that’s simple to understand for beginners, and gives you appointment-worthy results. We hope you’re ready… your ticket to Silk Press City awaits!
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1st stop? The Shampoo process.
If you want a good silk press, your natural hair needs a solid wash. You’re gonna need 2 shampoos, one for clarifying and one for moisturizing (both preferably sulfate-free).
Here are some good shampoos:
L’Oréal Paris EverPure Sulfate Free Clarifying Shampoo with Antioxidants
Moroccanoil Clarifying Shampoo
Design Essentials Almond Avocado Shampoo - 12 fl oz
TGIN Moisture Rich Sulfate Free Shampoo
Why both? A clarifying shampoo removes dirt, oil, impurities and buildup from your hair and scalp. But, in that process, it can also make your hair feel dry and crispy. That’s where the moisturizing shampoo comes in. It brings the moisture and hydration back into your hair so that it’s softer and more manageable.
Pro tip: add a scalp rinse before the shampoo process to thoroughly cleanse the roots and scalp. We recommend the TPH by Taraji Master Cleanse Targeted Scalp Wash for a cool and tingly clean feel!
Make sure to deeply cleanse your hair with both shampoos - from the scalp to the ends. If you really want the shampoo to get to your scalp and roots, a scalp scrubber can be a great option for you. Just, avoid over-scrubbing, which can cause tangles in your natural hair.
When you’re done, make sure to thoroughly rinse your hair with warm water so that your hair is set for the next stop.
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2nd stop? The Conditioning process.
This step is important because it preps your hair for the heat it’s about to endure/ come in contact with.
When straightening your hair, it’s best to pass on the regular conditioner and go for a deep conditioning treatment. But why? Deep conditioning has a higher level of hydration and prevents dryness, breakage and split ends… better than a regular conditioner would. This makes your hair more resilient/ resistant to damage from heat (which is required in order to achieve a silk press).
So why a deep conditioning treatment? Why not protein?
While both treatments are great and should be incorporated into your hair care routine… if you can only do 1, it should be a D.C. treatment, because: the main focus of a deep conditioner is to add that deeper level of moisture and hydration, which can make your hair more resistant to the high heat of your styling tools for the silk press.
But, if your hair is very damaged, fragile, or weak, you can add a protein treatment to it this silk press routine. Just make sure that afterwards you go in with the deep conditioner. That way you get the best of both worlds with strengthening and moisturizing benefits.
Here are some good deep conditioners and protein treatments:
amika Soulfood Nourishing Hair Mask
It's a 10 Miracle Hair Mask - 8 fl oz
Nexxus Keraphix Damage Healing Treatment Masque with Keratin Protein - 1.5 fl oz
TGIN Miracle Repairx CPR Protein Treatment Curl Protein Reconstructor Packette
When deep conditioning/ using treatments, make sure to add heat (heated conditioning cap, hooded dryer, bonnet dryer, etc.). Use a low-medium heat setting. This opens your hair cuticles so the product can get deeper into the hair. When the product gets deeper, your hair absorbs more of the nourishing benefits- like better levels of hydration and moisture retention, improved curl elasticity (and of course healthier hair). But before you get under the heat, make sure your hair is properly detangled so that the product can reach all parts of your hair.
Here’s some great detangling tools:
KareCo Tangle Buster Brush, Detangler for All Hair Types, Black Color
Mane Star Styling Megastar 2-Row Double Wide Tooth Detangling Comb
Mane Star Styling No Knots On Set Electric Detangling Comb
Leave your deep conditioner (and protein treatments) in for around 30 minutes. It ultimately depends on factors such as the state of your hair, your porosity, the level of damage, etc., but we typically recommend half an hour because after 30 mins, the treatments effectiveness begins to decrease, but before 30 mins, the product may not have had enough time to be effective.
When the time is up, make sure to thoroughly rinse your hair with cool/cold water. Doing this seals(closes) your cuticle (which seals in the moisture from your treatments), and can reduce frizz and add shine.
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3rd stop? The Blow-Dry process.
Mastering this step is crucial, as it determines how silky your natural hair will be (and how much work it will take to get there).
Divide your hair into 4-8 sections. While your hair is still damp/ wet, you’re going to apply 3 products: A leave in spray, a heat, protectant spray and a serum. we recommend using these three products to protect your hair from heat damage, as well as to lock in the hydration, prevent frizz, and add shine.
Below are some great leave-ins, heat protectants and serums:
Moroccanoil All in One Leave-In Conditioner
Silk Elements MegaSilk Olive Heat Protection Spray
Beyond the Zone Turn Up the Heat Flat Iron Protection Spray
Biosilk Travel Size Silk Therapy Original
CHI Silk Infusion Silk Reconstructing Complex - 6 fl oz
Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum, Speeds Up Drying Time, Humidity Resistant, For Frizzy Hair
Here’s the set up:
While your hair is still wet and sectioned off, rope twist each section of hair and then make a Bantu knot for all sections - EXCEPT 1. That 1 section is what you’ll start with. Use your leave-in, then use your heat protectant. Don’t be stingy with it, but don’t overdo it. Then comb that section through to distribute the product. Lastly, add a dime size amount of your serum, and apply it to everywhere BUT the ends. After that, rope twist that section and then make a Bantu knot. Repeat for all your sections. The reason for the twist and knot is to prevent your hair from drying out before you get to add the products (because the key is to add these products while the hair is wet- that’s what will keep your hair hydrated and flowy throughout your time having a silk press).
Now that all of your hair is prepped, it’s time to blow dry.
Here’s the key to a good blow dry: using the highest setting… let us explain.
The straighter and smoother you get your hair with the blow dryer, the less heat, passes and overall work you will have to do with your flat iron. Also, using the highest setting on your blow dryer will speed the blow drying session up (along with less passes and overall work).
It’s best to use the higher setting on your blow dryer, be able to get 1-2 smooth passes at 390°, vs using a lower setting and having to do 2-3 passes at 420°.
Now, to get the smoothest blow dry possible- A blow dryer and a paddle brush or round brush would be ideal- but it’s not the easiest to start out with. It can take a lot of practice, trial and error, and it can be time consuming for beginners. So, we recommend a blow dryer with pre included attachments (round brush attachments, paddle brush attachments, etc). It’s a simple and effective alternative to use until you’re ready to progress with the dryer + brush combo… and with good technique, your hair will still be quite smooth. even if you never choose to or have no desire to learn the dryer + brush combo, the multi-head blow dry brush will do your hair justice.
Here’s a great blow dryer brush:
Mane Star Styling Star Power 4-in-1 Hair Blowout Brush & Dryer Set
Take 1 section of hair- and half it (you can use a hair sectioning clip to hold the hair instead of having to twist and knot it back up.)
The smaller the section, the better. Make sure to actively hold the hair that the blow dryer is going through. This can create some extra tension (which gets your hair smoother, faster) and also gives your hair more security. Also, don’t rush through your hair with the dryer… take your time. Slowly gliding the dryer through your hair to minimize the amount of passes needed, along with damage.
Pro tip: don’t neglect keeping a door/window open or having a fan on. Using hot tools in a room with little to no air flow? That can be a disaster waiting to happen. Because of the low airflow, you can start to sweat- which can cause your hair to revert (meaning all your hard work goes to waste!) and that’s a no no.
Once your entire head of hair is blown out, go through it one more time (just a quick pass) on the cool setting. This minimizes any frizz that could still be hanging around, so your press stays sleek.
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4th (and last) stop? The Straightening process.
All the steps you’ve taken, have led you here. Now it’s time to make this silk press dream a reality!
Which flat iron should I choose?
We’re sure you’ve heard the hype about titanium irons… and while the hype is pretty much true, the hype generally doesn’t include the risks. One too many passes, too high of a temperature, or simple user error… and your natural hair can be ruined. And we’re not trying to scare you off, we just want to be real with you. We generally recommend titanium styling tools for professionals, or experienced users. But if you’re absolutely stuck on titanium, we recommend you get practice on replaceable hair (wigs, bundles, clip-ins, extensions, etc), then practice on your real hair.
Here’s a good flat iron:
Mane Star Styling A-List Press Digital Infrared Ceramic Flat Iron Hair Straightener
Again, Section your hair into 4-8 sections.
Here are the heat ranges we recommend:
Fine/ Thin or Fragile Hair:
- Temperature: 120 - 150°C (250 - 300°F)
Normal/ Medium Hair:
- Temperature: 180 - 200°C (300 - 395°F)
Thick/ Coarse or Textured Hair:
- Temperature: 200 - 230°C (395 - 450°F)
Start with the lowest temp within your hair range to see the minimal heat temp needed to straighten your hair. You can always go up if needed.
To start flat ironing, take a piece of your section. Make sure it’s not too big, but not too small. If it’s too big, you’ll have to use more passes and it’ll take more work… but if it’s too small, you’ll be spending forever and a day trying to finish your whole head.
Slowly glide the flat iron down the piece, and use a rat-tail comb underneath the iron for added smoothness. This is called the “chase” method (because the iron is chasing the comb). Avoid going over the same piece more than twice to prevent unnecessary damage.
If you have a hard time reaching your roots, or your nape + edges, consider using a mini pencil iron, which is specifically designed to straighten short hairs.
Don’t rush the process, take your time on each piece. Make your passes slow and intentional, to get the silkiest results without going over each piece a couple times. It’s better to go slower and have to do 2 passes max, than go faster and have to do 4.
Repeat the process on all pieces until your whole head is complete.
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The Final Destination...
Well, if you made it this far… you’re finally at Silk Press City!
So, what now?
Add a drop or 2 of serum or a smidge of hair wax to smooth out any flyaways.
If you want a bone straight look, you can wrap your hair when you’re finished, or when going to bed.
If you desire, add some curls with the flat iron. take slightly bigger sections than when you originally started pressing and go over it once more, focusing on rotating the iron to create the curl. Rotate the iron in the direction you want it to sit, and make sure to constantly keep the iron moving to prevent creases and dents. When done, spray lightly with a finishing/ holding spray and then set with rollers for a few hours, then pin curl. If you don’t have rollers, no problem! Just go straight to pin curls.
If you want your ends bumped, take bigger sections than when you originally started pressing and go over them once more, focusing on the ends, make sure to slightly curve the iron under or over - depending on how you want the first ends to sit. Let the style sit and then wrap.
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We hope This guide has helped you achieve the silk press of your dreams! With the right products, tools and techniques, Mane Star level hair is always within your reach!
xoxo,
Mane Star Styling